The 2020 Barbaresco Sorì Tildin is a powerful deep wine. Dark fruit leather spice tobacco and incense saturate the palate. A Barbaresco of stature and brooding intensity Sorì Tildin will need a number of years to be at its very best. The 2020 is an unusually somber dark Sorì Tildin. - By Antonio Galloni on September 2023 This is a superb set of wines from the Gaja family. The 2021 whites are notable for their vibrancy. Moving further into the tasting the 2020 Barbarescos are gorgeous vibrant wines that impress with their delineation. The 2020s need time in the glass to emerge but the signatures of each wine are very much present. The same is true for the 2019 Barolos. These days the Gaja wines are defined by greater energy than in the past but they remain quintessentially Gaia in breeding.
Also tasted as a barrel sample the 2020 Sori Tildin is expansive in its aromatics of red fruits wild herbs pressed roses and wild raspberry. It has more iron richness throughout the palate with a touch of game red cherry and forest floor. A more solar wine with ripe tannins and a bit more modesty in its acidity it is mouthwatering and will benefit from more time in bottle as well. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859 although it was Angelo Gaja the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. I met with Giovanni Gaja for this tasting at the estate in Barbaresco and also made a visit to the nearby region of the Alta Langa only 16 kilometers away from the original estate. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same but fermentation and production will move to this location. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms and only 40% vineyards compared to Barbaresco which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason as well as the higher elevations this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015 they purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees at an average elevation of 650 meters which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. The winery which I toured in March of 2023 will be completed in time to begin production for this year's harvest.
Sorí Tíldin occupies the top of the hill overlooking Costa Russi. A south-facing amphitheatre of vines on sandier soils it's planted vertically to allow for a higher density. This has a darker denser profile compared to Costa Russi's cool fragrance: scents of red and black cherry pomegranate and raspberry accompany ripe intense and fragrant dark cherry flavours with some chocolate and wood notes. There's lovely freshness to provide balance while the long vibrant cherry finish is rounder and creamier than Costa Russi. (Drink between 2024-2044)
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