The 2017 Barolo Perarmando is a new wine from Marco and his sister Tiziana Parusso, representing a 30,000-bottle salute to their father Armando who founded this estate in 1971. The wine is being released just as this estate, located on the ridge of hills between Monforte d'Alba and Castiglione Falletto, celebrates its 50th anniversary. Perarmando shows the distinctive winemaking signature that sets this house style apart from all the rest in the Barolo region. There is a concerted effort to bring about concentration, richness, tannin and fruit intensity. You might think it'd be too much in a hot vintage like 2017. However, I found this wine to be especially graceful in the context of the very robust Parusso power threshold. There is extra astringency here, so please take care to give this bottle generous aging time. In keeping in line with a wine once made by Armando Parusso, this is a blend of fruit from Bussia, Mosconi and Mariondino. (Monica Larner)